Opera, my #2 browser choice is now free. Go get it!
Now, Netcraft reports that the site is slowing down as a result. I am also measuring it using GrabPERF
Now, if they turned on compression and had some explicit cache-control information, they might not be doing to badly.

HTTP/1.1 200 OK
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 20:51:09 GMT
Server: mod-xslt/1.3.8 Apache/2.0.54 (Debian GNU/Linux) \
                           mod_perl/1.999.21 Perl/v5.8.4
Last-Modified: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 12:25:37 GMT
ETag: "771846-1277-63ed7240"
Accept-Ranges: bytes
Content-Length: 4727
Content-Type: text/html

They are using Apache. Apache has mod_deflate. TURN IT ON!